Funny you say that. I went around after I posted the pictures, wiped everything down and decided to do one last pass with fairing compound. I’ll stand it down tomorrow and paint next week. I think it needs three days after curing to paint.
Funny you say that. I went around after I posted the pictures, wiped everything down and decided to do one last pass with fairing compound. I’ll stand it down tomorrow and paint next week. I think it needs three days after curing to paint.
Good work
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did you use the fiberglass sheets or just resin? hard to tell in some of those pics. I'm just wondering....
Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.
I cut sheets for the two larger holes and stuffed the smaller holes with fiberglass. There were a few holes not pictures that I just used resin mixed with 407 or 410 (can’t remember), in the front were holes where an old trolling motor was mounted. So I just filled those uptake clear holes looked to be filled already with something. It was a little rough so I used filler and covered it up to smooth and seal that pit. I should have used a sheet of fiberglass but just used the thick filler.
Last edited by duckz; 07-25-2019 at 06:40 AM.
roger thanks
i've been doing something similar to a couple of gheenoe type boats. i used sheets but certainly wish my resin was thicker at times. I am not worried about esthetics, just floating.
Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.
you really have?
i really have
Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.
Just about to start on this one. Last hole to finish then I can paint. I am going to tape the inside and layer and layer glass to build up. This was the old front navigation light
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Last edited by duckz; 07-26-2019 at 11:23 AM.
Before you tape, grind out around the hole until you get to clean glass. Then use resin and chop mat to build it back up.
Oh yea I will, sorry just meant that for a before pic
with those, I take few popsicle sticks and put sheet metal screws in the middle of stick just so I have something to hold onto.
I coat the stick with resin and go thru the hole and use the "screw handle" to pull it up and make a wooden bottom for the hole.
Last edited by ecu1984; 07-26-2019 at 04:42 PM.
After first sand. Will need to fill in the dimples though, then sand again.
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I can see your skillz are developing. Told ya, there isn't much to this stuff.
thanks. I know, it does take time but it is not that hard at all.
The only problem is that I found a few soft spots in my floor and have the itch to cut it all out and redo the whole thing. Its a much bigger undertaking but it seems fairly straightforward. I am going to have to do a few more patches before I get the confidence for that, but it does need to be done.
It is not perfect by any means, but after the fiberglassing repairs it will hold me over until I redo the floor and can then have Stump make it look pretty with some new camo. I’m happy for the $50 investment.
The patches came out pretty good. You can tell they are there on the right light, but I think they are pretty smooth.
The issue is, I had to take out the old switches and they were corroded to say the least. One never worked and now I know why. I guess I found my next task.
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After:
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Looks great, worth the money to learn the skills too.
What is the snake of holes down the middle for?
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