Flooring question

[Frank1]

I have "real" hardwood flooring in my hallways which make a circle throughout the house and all rooms join it. Had carpet in the bedrooms and am considering replacing it with a LVT that looks very much like the original hardwood in the hallway. Would it be better to install an underlayment in the bedrooms so the LVT height closely matches the hardwood in the hallway or just use a transition strip in the doorways?

Thanks!

[mudflat]

Coming from an all hardwood house, I miss my old feet hitting carpet in the morning. To answer your question, your going to have a transition strip regardless. Depends on how much you despise the difference in floor heights and cost for additional underlayment.

[BigBrother]

Me:

Similar situation. I had hardwoods I needed to refinish. I could get close to the OG hardwoods but was never satisfied. I ended up putting down LVT over my hardwoods and putting transitions between most doorways due to floor height and not being able to get an underlayment make all my subfloors congruent through all rooms.

[Frank1]

I like carpet in bedrooms too and I'm not sure if the height differences can be made flush. Was thinking of maybe floating an underlayment with trowel on adhesive near the doorways but it may still show in the lines in the LVT. May just go with carpet and let it go. Probably sell in a year or two anyway to downsize, retirement is approaching.

[Black Bart]

You could use Ardex Feather Finish or some other lightweight concrete in the doorway to float the floor up and make the two floors flush. Or you could put down lauan before you lay the LVP. Always eliminate transitions when possible.

[forresj]

I'm guessing you're talking glue down LVP? If you're talking floating floor you'll have to do a transition because it'll never be a tight joint. For what its worth the floating LVP with built in underlayment has a pretty good feel underfoot as far as cushion

[SwampDecoy]

Regardless of whether you do Gluedown LVP or Floating LVP, you have to have a Transition to leave Expansion Space between the 2. Depending on which LVP and how thick it is, you can add 3/8" or 1/2" plywood to make it "almost" the same height as the HW, but will have a "T" Mold or a Reducer between them for the mentioned Expansion Space.

My $0.02- you should consider Laminate(12mm thick) instead of LVP unless you are looking for Cost. Must better wearing, longer lasting, and will "sound" much better when you walk on it. If you just don't want to use the Sand and Finish HW.

[Frank1]

Would probably have to glue it at the doorway where it butts to the original hardwood flooring, still working the details out. Definitely easier to do carpet or a transition strip

[Black Bart]

Get a floating floor, regardless of which type of LVP you land on.

[Saltydog235]

LVP and a reducer strip and roll on. If you’re trying to have a smooth transition, buy some prefinished hardwood like Bruce of a contrasting color and wood and put it down. By the time you put down another layer of plywood, glue it and screw it, plus a good quality LVT, you’ll have more money in it.

[charlie horse]

Just put carpet back down, cheapest option, doesn’t look tacky like fake wood next to real wood. You’re gonna sell it anyway.

[Frank1]

Bruce actually has a color that almost exactly matches the floor I have, thought about that too. I think carpet is going to win, one day install and its done.

[Gulfstream]

Agree with the floating floor, and the transition strips. Had this done in our house 2 years ago transitioning to 'real' hardwoods and very pleased.